Within an hour after landing at Puerto Vallarta's airport last month, I was enjoying a cocktail by the pool at the upscale Westin Resort and Spa. It itself as a wellness resort, and I was feeling very well indeed, enjoying the warm breezes off the Bay of Banderas. The hotel was 80% booked, but because the property is so expansive, it didn't feel crowded. Its COVID-19 protocols requiring masks in the indoor common areas and for its employees made it feel very safe.

Puerto Vallarta (aka "PV") has long been Mexico's most popular LGBTQ beach vacation destination. All the city's Gay-focused businesses have survived the pandemic, with the exception of the city's newest Gay bar, Candy Bar, which closed earlier this year after the building's owner bought out the lease. The bars that don't also serve food had to close for the month of August, as the delta variant became a concern, but things are expected to get back to normal in time for the high season, in late fall and winter.

On Mexico's west coast along the Bay of Banderas, Puerto Vallarta is a little less than a five-hour flight from Seattle. Delta and Alaska fly there nonstop from Sea-Tac. You don't need a COVID test or proof of vaccination to enter Mexico, but you will need a negative test to go back to the US. Most of the larger hotels, including the Westin and Marriott, will give you a test in the hotel for free. You can also get a test at Puerto Vallarta's airport for about $20.

Much to offer LGBT visitors
Puerto Vallarta has about two-dozen Gay bars and more than a half-dozen LGBT hotels.

Almost all of the Gay stuff is to be found in the Zona Romántica area, which is just south of downtown, just on the other side of the Cuale River. Some people also call that neighborhood Old Town, which is a misnomer, since downtown is much older. The Gay epicenter of Puerto Vallarta is at the corner of Lázaro Cárdenas and Ignacio L. Vallarta, where the very popular open-air club Mr. Flamingo is. Paco's Ranch next door is busiest late at night due to its popular drag shows, which generally don't get started until after midnight.

The other clubs on that block include La Noche, CC Slaughters, and the newest clubs on the block, Industry and Co-De.

There are no Lesbian bars in Puerto Vallarta, but Elixir Mixology Bar, about four blocks from Mr. Flamingo's, is women-owned and has a Thursday evening women's night offering a free cocktail for women. All the other Gay bars in the city, with the exception of the male-stripper ones, are welcoming to women.

Puerto Vallarta boasts three Gay news and information guides: Gay PV, Gay Guide Vallarta, and Out and About PV. You can find them all over the Zona Romántica, and some of the more Gay-friendly mainstream hotels have them in stock at the concierge desk. Tim Wilson, the owner of Gay PV (gaypv.com), also runs Gay bar tours, which is a great way to have fun and get the inside scoop on the city's LGBT nightlife.

The unofficial Gay beach is the stretch of the public Los Muertos Beach in front of the Blue Chairs Resort, which is why it is called the Blue Chairs.

PV offers a number of Gay-focused tours and cruises, but the best-known and longest running is Diana Tours, run by Diana DeCoste, a French-Canadian Lesbian. Her cruises have been running for over twenty years, and she deservedly has a loyal following.

Accommodations
For the uninitiated, the Puerto Vallarta airport is about a 20-minute ride north of downtown. Just south of the airport, you will find some of the city's best luxury full-service megahotel properties, including the Westin and the Marriott Hotel and Spa, both of which, while not Gay-specific, promote themselves to the LGBT community, and the staff has been trained to welcome LGBT visitors and provide them with information about Gay-oriented nightlife and activities.

There are also a number of Gay hotels, most of which are in the Zona Romántica, the heart of Gay PV. Hotel Mercurio is a great budget hotel; Piñata PV is an upscale boutique property for Gay men. Casa Cupula is a luxury LGBT hotel that deservedly ranks highly. Almar, on the beach, is the largest of the Gay hotels; it is part of the Mantamar beach club, which is open for day passes and includes a huge pool, cabanas, a bar, and a restaurant. Pilitas LGBT took over the space where the Vallarta Cora was, and the property was completely renovated and looks better than ever.

The newest Gay hotel in Puerto Vallarta is Amaria Villas, which is on a jungle hillside about a 15-minute Uber ride from the Zona Romántica. Hotel & Suites

Jet's Hostel and the hacienda-style Villa David are both downtown, a short walk from the Zona Romántica. Jet's is PV's most affordable option if you are okay with sharing a space. Villa David is now only welcoming returning guests and friends.

Five quick travel tips
1. Timeshares: When you arrive in Puerto Vallarta and clear customs, you will be confronted with salespeople selling timeshares. They often pretend they are affiliated with various hotels and will offer you a free shuttle. But ignore them and just keep walking. Even if you want to buy a timeshare, do so from the secondary market, where they are practically giving them away. Some people beat the timeshare salespeople at their own game by bidding up the "free gifts" or cash you get to attend the presentation. But you will pay for those rewards and cash by giving up a good part of your day at a sales presentation.

2. Getting from the airport: You can save money on cab fare if you cross over the pedestrian bridge on the side of the airport and take one of the yellow taxis that are parked in front of the Tacón de Marlin Restaurant. You can also call an Uber car from there, which will usually be cheaper than a taxi. (Ubers are not allowed to pick up at the airport but they can drop you off there. You can catch an Uber car on either side of the pedestrian bridge next to the airport.) If you don't have a data plan that works in Mexico, you can call Uber using the airport's free Wi-Fi. A cab to the Zona Romántica is about $15, but about $10 more if you ride from the airport itself. You can also catch a city bus into downtown or the Zona Romántica for just 10 pesos, or about 50 cents. Just be sure to ask the driver if they are going to Centro (downtown): "¿Va al centro?"

3. Money: Exchange money at a bank. That is where you will get the best rate. Currently it's about 20 pesos per dollar. But the airport will give you only about 16 pesos per dollar. A bank will give you 18—19 pesos per dollar. But bring copies of your passport. The bank will ask you for a copy before they will exchange your dollars — and they won't make a copy for you. Hotels and many storefront booths will exchange money, but their rate will be a little less than the bank, and they generally will not ask you for a copy of your passport. Most stores will accept dollars as payment, but they usually will not give you a good exchange rate, and they will give you change in pesos. You can also withdraw money from an ATM in pesos, but you will be assessed a fee for every withdrawal, and the exchange rate may be a little less than you would get if you exchanged money with a teller.

4. Water: Don't be afraid of the water. Puerto Vallarta's tap water has won awards for quality and safety. Drinking tap water instead of bottled water is also better for the environment. The one exception is that if you are staying in a building that relies on a water tank at the top of the building to provide water pressure and if the tank is contaminated, you could get into trouble. But you won't have a problem at a major hotel

5. Taxis: Taxis in Puerto Vallarta are not metered, so be sure to establish a price before you get into the taxi. It is not customary to tip cab drivers in Mexico, but if they give you extra service, such as helping you carry your bags, you should give them a tip. Ubers are usually cheaper and the best way to ensure that you won't be ripped off by a taxi driver. But sometimes during peak surge time, when there is a high demand, taxis may be cheaper than Uber.