While Seattle is home to some of the biggest, most beautiful indie bookstores in the Pacific Northwest, they tend to pale compared to one of Portland's most iconic: Powell's Books, a must-see for bibliophiles of all ages.
Powell's somehow feels both old and new at the same time. Staff picks and popular new items like Pageboy line the walls at the front of the store, beckoning readers to inspect their shiny covers. On the other hand, walking along the dense shelves, one is struck by the intense smell of old paper; it greets the nose like a familiar friend.
Customers eventually find themselves surrounded by old wooden shelves, where worn and well-read titles poke out. With their cracked spines and yellowing pages, it is the older books that hold the most spirit. Each one carries with it secrets the answers to which are never to be known. Who might have turned these pages before? The store seems to know, but it will never tell.
The legend of Powell's
Powell's is considered a PNW landmark, but it began in Chicago. In 1970 Michael Powell opened his first bookstore shortly after graduating from the University of Chicago, taking out a $3,000 loan to do so. He was so successful that he paid the loan back in just a few months.
Powell's found its way to Portland thanks to his father, Walter, who lived in Portland but spent a summer visiting his son in Chicago. Upon seeing how successful the bookstore was, he decided to open his own in the West. The original Portland Powell's started in a former used car dealership on NW Burnside. Walter bought up every used book he could until the whole building was stacked full.
Michael joined his father in Portland in 1979, where they expanded the business into one of the country's first combinations of new and used bookstores, as well as one of the only bookstores open 365 days a year. As it expanded, they continued to staff it full of literature experts who could offer advice and recommendations to anyone who came through the front doors.
For 40 years, Powell's Books has continued to serve Portland's community. The Powell family still runs the store, with Michael's daughter Emily now in charge. "My grandfather [Walter] taught me that our job is to connect the writer's voice with the reader's ear and not let our egos get in between," she said on the official website. "My father taught me not only the love of the book itself but also how to love the business of bookselling."
More than just books
Today, Powell's has three locations in Portland. The largest is Powell's City of Books, which carries over one million new and used volumes. This location is also home to the Rare Books Room, where collectors can hunt for hard-to-find antique editions of classics. There are also two smaller locations, one at Cedar Hills Crossing and one on Hawthorne. All locations are ADA accessible. Together, they are a staple of the city.
The stores host events every week. On Saturday mornings, they hold children's story hour; each features different picture books and encourages reading, imagination, and creativity among youngsters. There are also regular local author visits, including a variety of fiction, nonfiction, local, and national guests. On Tuesday, August 1, Powell's will host Omar El Akkad in conversation with Lydia Kiesling, the author of Mobility, to talk about their new nonfiction book about immigration. The next day, author and environmentalist John W. Reid will appear for a special reading of Ever Green: Saving Big Forests to Save the Planet.
Powell's sells more than just books, though. For anyone passing through Portland, it is a perfect stop for souvenirs. Shoppers can find magnets, socks, journals, candles, and totes among a wide assortment of fun gifts.
At just under three hours from Seattle, Powell's is the perfect destination for a summer road trip.