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On the road in Utah's national parks: Exploring canyons, hoodoos, and the desert

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Zion National Park / Aisha Misbah
Zion National Park / Aisha Misbah

While Utah may not be your first thought when planning your next vacation, you won't regret visiting for its otherworldly arches, mile-long canyons, and gorgeous mountains.

Millions of people visit the state every year. Its five national parks — Arches, Bryce Canyon, Canyonlands, Capitol Reef, and Zion — saw about 11 million people in 2024.

My sister and I flew down from Seattle to Las Vegas one morning in June 2024, starting our trip there since we had never visited. We rented a car and spent the rest of the day reveling in what Vegas had to offer: brunch at Snooze A.M. Eatery, the gigantic Bellagio Conservatory, and the aliens at Area15 (an entertainment venue).

Having indulged ourselves, we set off early the following day on a three-hour road trip to Utah, distracted along the way by all the interesting structures, like the Aztec sandstone formations that looked like giant beehives in Valley of Fire State Park.

I never felt out of place when visiting the state, but I mainly stuck to the national parks. For those looking into a more urban visit, Salt Lake City is a very LGBTQIA+-friendly place, with its large and established population of Queers. It ranks third in the nation for the proportion of married same-sex couples in 2020, according to the Census Bureau.

Zion National Park

Zion National Park has an abundance of activities, from climbing Angel's Landing to trekking the desert trails. One of its most famous locations, The Narrows, allows people to trudge upstream through the narrowest section of Zion Canyon as they marvel at the smooth grooves of the walls, carved by water millions of years ago.

I recommend hikers rent neoprene socks, canyoneering boots, and a walking stick from one of the few rental shops around the park, which offer gear for various seasons (we used Zion Outfitters).
Very early in the morning, we picked up our equipment and got on the shuttle bus, as cars are not allowed in the park past the visitor center.

After multiple stops at the park's many attractions, the Narrows trailhead, the Temple of Sinawava, is the very last one. I advise going as early as possible to beat the crowds, as this will give you more time with your traveling partners and nature.

The Narrows is 16 miles long, but most people don't go that far. My sister and I did a total of eight miles round-trip. The water levels vary depending on the time of year: in the summer, they are lower than in the winter or spring, when you could expect to be wading — or more like swimming — through water reaching up to your neck or higher. Most of our hike was through water that reached our knees, but at one point, it rose to our chests. The cool feeling was a welcome relief, since the morning turned into a quickly blistering afternoon.

It felt surreal hiking through the canyon. As some of the few people there so early in the morning, we took in everything around us in relative quiet. We felt the cool water against our heating skin, the smooth walls of the canyon, and the plants and trees that dotted the area around us, sometimes growing in from the top of the canyon.

Another popular Zion attraction is Angel's Landing, a large rock formation, where the hike turns into a climb, with only a chain to hold onto. It is one of the more dangerous park adventures, requiring a permit. My sister and I did not do it, but if you're daring and experienced enough, go for it.

The Narrows / Aisha Misbah  

Bryce Canyon National Park

If Zion was a fantasy world, then crossing over to Bryce Canyon, about a two-hour drive, was like stepping onto Mars. There, you can find the largest concentration of hoodoos (irregular columns of rocks) on earth. The structures, dirt, and rocks are a rusty red, offering visitors an otherworldly landscape to explore.

While hiking is a great way to tour Bryce, horseback riding was one of our best choices. My sister and I opted for the three-hour ride; while it was a little pricey, it was worth the money. We gave our tired legs a rest from the previous few days as we rode through the landscape on beautiful horses, past trees and along steep climbs among the hoodoos. It felt like being in a Western film, with the heat on our backs, the steady pace of riding a horse, and the desert surrounding us.

Another key part of the park is the Southern Scenic Drive from the Visitor Center to Rainbow Point, at over 9,000 feet, the result of uneven tectonic forces that uplifted the region over the last 20 million years. There are several places to stop on the way, such as Sunrise and Sunset Points, Natural Bridge, and Agua Canyon Overlook.

Looking back on this trip with my sister, it's apparent to me that it's important — now more than ever — to support national and state parks to preserve nature and educate people about our world, especially considering the Trump administration's staffing and funding cuts.

Utah may not be your first choice to visit, but I highly recommend it. You might be pleasantly surprised!

Visit the National Park Service's website for more information about Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks (https://www.nps.gov/index.htm).

Red Arch Natural Bridge (left) and horse riding at Bryce Canyon (right) / Aisha Misbah  

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