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Wednesday, Oct 15, 2008
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Herme the Hermaphrodite and more Skagway information |
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| Herme the Hermaphrodite and more Skagway information | |
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by Rev. Barbara Allen, CMP -
SGN Contributing Writer Black and beautiful (in her own way) (it's an acquired taste), she/he lives a protected life on a back street away from the busy part of town. Hidden from the public, spending most of her time in a walk-up above a laundry and across from the local rustic market, she is content with her glossy hair, food, shelter, toys, and affectionate caring family. No one knew about her unusual biological reproductive plumbing until their veterinarian discovered it by accident, and Cornell University confirmed for the Lihou family that it was so. Herme is a real bitch, a gorgeous Pug, who is appropriately disdainful of strangers, but warm to her extended immediate caring family. She has no concept about what it is to be a hermaphrodite. She only knows what it's like to be loved unconditionally and non-judgmentally, by her extended family. The Laundromat is run by her mistress, a congenial and charming woman, who offers the best laundry service in Skagway. I was urged by these folks to try the Sweet Tooth Café. Eating out in Skagway runs the gamut from awful to sometimes surprisingly good. Best to learn from the natives about where they eat out, not from tourists who are well fed on their cruise ships and don't necessarily dine during their limited day in the town, except perhaps for espresso, latte's, candy or ice cream cones. Starting with a hearty breakfast, The Sweet Tooth Café, on the main street is reasonably priced, offering well prepared food, unpretentious, wholesome and tasty, available only at breakfast and lunch. They bake their own muffins, cinnamon buns, cakes, cookies and bread, including rye, and have a good Reuben sandwich with homemade corned beef. This is rare in the Klondike area! The Skagway fish company, a favorite for town business people for lunch, is on the water and offers competent standard fare including burgers, fries, and good halibut. Near there, open for dinner, is the Stowaway Café which has a good menu, and boasts fresh baked bread which came to our table stone cold. Fish is good here, usually with exotic gourmet preparation. It's pricier than some other places. Starfire, on a side street, offers Thai cuisine, but is erratic in portions, contents of dishes, and attitude. If the young wait staff knows and recognizes you as a "regular" they may be attentive. Otherwise, maybe not. I had an excellent Tom Yum there for lunch one day, returned for dinner at another time, and was disappointed by the same dish, which was suddenly mostly broth, while at a table nearby with locals dining, the same dish was full of goodies. Service, cooking, portions, and attitude towards tourists may be dicey. Some Skagway friends sought to excuse this stating that it was at the end of the season, and the restaurant staff were likely burned out. Maybe the same was true at the Cozy Café, burn-out resulting in mediocre service and cold home baked bread?. Neither of these places would do well in Seattle unless they consistently improved, but, some Skagway diners value their presence. A pleasant surprise was Olivias, which is open only to those staying at their facility, except for evening Tapas. The food is very good, and appropriately priced. Good wine list as well, and lovely desserts. My default food place in Skagway is the same as that of the local residents, the unpretentious Fairway Market, which has fresh food, including a meat counter, fruit, veggies, and reasonably priced. It's the main market for the town, on a back street. If you're RV'ing, camping or at a motel room that has some cooking facilities, it's a good bet unless you prefer and can afford eating out. Of course, there's a Starbucks, as well as a number of other places offering gourmet coffee drinks. The pizza places are not up to lower "48" standards. Walk around the city, explore stores, shops, eateries, and all of their wonderful museums. There are marvelous hiking opportunities, and little parks here and there. There's also charter fishing, which is usually quite productive, and of course, tours. When the fast paced cruise "boat people" leave each evening at dinner time, many stores close, things quiet down, and Skagway mellows out. We regretted leaving new friends and great parties, but, had Ferry reservations, and were due home at the end of September. The Ferry ride from Skagway to Juneau was relatively short; gorgeous scenery and seascapes, and pleasant ship. Before we got home we'd be on three different Alaska State Ferries, stopping at two cities for several days, and another for half a day: Juneau and Sitka are both outstanding end destinations on their own. I'd asked about the Ferry system several times before leaving Washington, and have gotten vague answers&now, I found out for myself, and will share that mixed experience with you soon. No two Ferries are alike in sleeping quarters or in dining opportunities. |
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